Trekking To Triund

After lots of research which basically involved accosting anyone who'd been and demanding to know things, we decided to trust that there would indeed be tent accommodation and food at Triund once we got there and all we needed to bring was snacks, drinks and some warm clothing because it gets nippy up there. Oh, [...]

Adventures In Bhagsu

There are about a thousand things to do in the hippy training camp that is Bhagsu in between saluting the sun and having all the blood rush to your head in a decidedly unpleasant manner as you attempt pre-breakfast yoga. Jess had been teaching me macrame. I'd learned a bit of it in Hampi with [...]

The Tibetan Government In Exile

It's well known that McLeodGanj is the home of the Tibetan government in exile. His Holiness the 14th Dalai Lama himself, the Buddhist spiritual leader of Tibet, made the journey from Lhasa to India over the Himalayas back in 1959 when they began to fear for his safety after the Chinese invasion, and India have [...]

Hello To The Waistline

Bhagsu and Dharamkot consist entirely of hills and the trick is to try and minimise the hillage between where you're staying and the nearest beer. We massively failed at the first attempt and ended up staying in what was basically a small flat in Bhagsu at roughly the height of Everest. At least that's what [...]

As Spiritual As A Spanner

There's only one reason to go to Dharamsala and that's to get a bus straight to McLeodGanj. Fact. And the best way to get there from Amritsar is to bus it to Pathankot first and change buses there, and it was there I realised that I was sans phone. Ohhhh fuck. I mean, it wasn't [...]

City Of The Golden Temple – Part 2

As I said in the last post, if you loiter long enough someone will approach you and bundle you into a tuk tuk to head to the Wagah border closing ceremony. If you're foreign, take your passport. You'll be dropped about a kilometre from where it takes place and you'll need to clear three security [...]

City Of The Golden Temple – Part 1

There's nothing like waiting for a train in India to make you feel like you've got three heads and 10 metre tentacles instead of arms. There I was, sat on my bag on the platform at Bareilly, when someone asked me where I was from. I looked up. Guys, I was surrounded. Literally 360 degrees [...]

I’ll Be Back

It was surreal heading back into Kathmandu. I'd come back to apply for my Indian visa as I'd heard they'd started issuing them again, and whilst it's possible to arrange it in Pokhara it's already more expensive for a British citizen than other nationalities because our government is a twat to them so they reciprocate [...]