Hunting One Horned Rhinos

Chitwan National Park, protected from poachers by army patrols and watchtowers, is where you go to gawp at one horned rhinos in their natural habitat, and it's not like most places where there's a high chance all you'll see is some birds and a terrified deer. At Chitwan, you're pretty much going to see a [...]

Kathmandu Highlights

Aside from purchasing enough prayer flags to sanctify the air in a mafia strip club and trying to stop "Om Mani Padme Hum" from crawling round your braincells like an earworm on crack, there's not huge amounts to do in Kathmandu itself unless you're particularly fond of temples and stupas and knock off outdoor gear [...]

Just When You Thought Tea Was Just Tea

I love tea which is slightly stereotypical given my nationality, but then again I'm lesbian with short hair, several P!nk albums and a penchant for Superdry underwear so stereotypes are kinda my thing. I was totally thrown by chai when I first arrived in India though. When I was handed a tiny plastic cup of [...]

Varanasi – Part 1

"Meh. Varanasi. No strong opinions either way..." ...Said no one ever. I braced myself for Varanasi, I'd been told that you either love it or hate it, there was no in between in one of Hinduism's holiest cities. Varanasi was where one Danish bloke I met concluded that you don't come to India to enjoy [...]

Living It Up

One of my favourite things to wake up to, apart from breakfast in bed consisting of a large pile of bacon and half a cheesecake, is the cry of "Chaaiiii chaaiiii garam chaiiii garam garam chaiiii garam" as the chai wallah makes his way up and down overnight public transport offering up tiny ₹10 cups [...]

Hello, Feni, Meet My Liver

I have so many habits I need to drop as soon as I get back to the UK. The head wobble for one. Despite having exactly zero idea what it really means I appear to have adopted it and seem to use it without realising. If I keep doing it back home people will just [...]

Tea, Spices And General Munnar-ness

Bugger me backwards, it was cold this morning. Definitely cold enough to make your nipples sit up and take notice. And you don't have to worry about Benoy's early morning song singing waking you up because the fucking rooster will have you awake at 4am anyway. I really, really don't like roosters. Like, at all. [...]