How To Get From Kaza To Leh

Roads in this region and all the way down to Manali are maintained by the Border Roads Organisation, or BRO for short. BRO loves you and doesn't want to see you career off a dodgy road to your untimely and no doubt messy death. Most of the roads are pretty shit around here, probably because [...]

Journey To Spiti Valley

I didn't really know what to expect from Kaza, the main town in the remote Spiti Valley, but I certainly wasn't expecting super fast Internet access and electricity 24/7, so I hung back in Manali an extra day just to chill out and check out of real life for a several hours whilst compulsively scrolling [...]

As Spiritual As A Spanner

There's only one reason to go to Dharamsala and that's to get a bus straight to McLeodGanj. Fact. And the best way to get there from Amritsar is to bus it to Pathankot first and change buses there, and it was there I realised that I was sans phone. Ohhhh fuck. I mean, it wasn't [...]

City Of The Golden Temple – Part 1

There's nothing like waiting for a train in India to make you feel like you've got three heads and 10 metre tentacles instead of arms. There I was, sat on my bag on the platform at Bareilly, when someone asked me where I was from. I looked up. Guys, I was surrounded. Literally 360 degrees [...]

Dipping Into The North East

I'd first heard about the Living Root Bridges of Cherrapunji on Atlas Obscura's website and tucked that little nugget of awesome away in the back of my mind for when I finally made it to India. It's one of those places that folks either haven't heard of, or know of it and desperately want to [...]

The Calm Before The Tourist Storm

Seriously India, I love you but you sure do like to punish people for last minute plan changes, and it was a last minute plan change that had me thoughtfully munching my way through a masala dosa whilst trying to decide if I'd rather spend the next 48 hours of my life either on or [...]

The Waiting Game

India is fucking huge, but you only realise how huge it really is when you try and get from one place to another. It takes 23 hours to get from Bangalore to Mumbai by train. Twenty three whole, actual hours. If you travelled anywhere in the UK for 23 hours by any means of transportation [...]