I had literally no idea what to do with myself after the earthquake. My insurance company told me in no uncertain terms that I was no longer covered for trekking in Nepal and I didn't fancy being stuck up a mountain at 5000 metres with no way of getting down if altitude decided it wanted [...]
Category: Asia
On Shaky Ground
Just before midday on the 25th April I was sat in the garden at my hotel in Pokhara when there was an almighty rumble. I thought it was just a truck about to come past, and when the truck didn't appear and the rumble didn't stop my brain couldn't quite make sense of it and [...]
Birthplace Of The Buddha
Well if you will insist on rocking up to Lumbini in April then the first thing you're gonna notice is how fucking hot it is. Seriously. It's oppressively hot. It's like someone smothered you with a blanket and you're forced to breathe hot, stale, still air. Except someone set the blanket on fire. It's really, [...]
Hunting One Horned Rhinos
Chitwan National Park, protected from poachers by army patrols and watchtowers, is where you go to gawp at one horned rhinos in their natural habitat, and it's not like most places where there's a high chance all you'll see is some birds and a terrified deer. At Chitwan, you're pretty much going to see a [...]
End Of The Big Adventure
That thing when you're shovelling your breakfast into your chops, unsure as to whether you'll be flying back to Kathmandu today or if you'll end up spending the next 24 hours trying to find some manner of entertainment in Lukla which would more than likely involve the slow annihilation of your liver. Me and Nat [...]
Everest Base Camp Trek: Day 10
A few people this morning got up early to head to a museum in the town but the thought of walking up more steps than I had to, and before food at that, made all of my muscles recoil in horror, so I politely declined in favour of breakfast. They did learn some cool stuff [...]
Everest Base Camp Trek: Day 9
I woke up this morning and my immune system basically went, "Nope. Fuck you. Have some mucus." I couldn't even talk, my voice was trapped beneath layers of crap that I proceeded to get rid of Nepali style, hocking and spitting until I'd gotten as much of it off my chest and out of my [...]
Everest Base Camp Trek: Day 8
This morning some of the group got up at 4.30am to try and climb Kala Patthar, the 5554 metre mountain that Gorakshep sits at the foot of. It was a two hour climb but here's the thing; it was before breakfast. I can't function before breakfast. But I was going to try anyway. Katherine, Sin [...]
Everest Base Camp Trek: Day 7
Everything was frozen this morning. Condensation hadn't even bothered forming, the window was just covered in frost which I grudgingly admitted was pretty and took photos of it against the better judgment of my fingers which weren't enjoying being outside of my mittens. People not used to using bucket flushes tend to miss a lot [...]
Everest Base Camp Trek: Day 6
I woke up this morning, wriggled partially out of my sleeping bag, pulled back the curtain and wiped at the condensation. It didn't fucking move. The condensation was frozen in place. I braced myself and slid the rest of the way out of my bag, went in search of a toilet and met Melissa on [...]