Living Ice

You'd think we'd have had enough of glaciers by now but here we were in a cute little Patagonian town whose sole tourist attraction was a large chunk of ice about 80 kilometres away in the Parque Nacional los Glaciares. Perito Moreno Glacier isn't the biggest glacier in the national park which protects a whopping [...]

A Lake & Not Quite A Glacier

With a couple of days spare in Ushuaia we figured we'd go put some more stuff in our eyeholes. Lakes and glaciers and the like. Laguna Esmerelda, or Emerald Lake, is a very popular walk about a 20 minute drive from Ushuaia. You can take a shuttle so that's what we did, at a weekend [...]

A National Park & A 4×4 Adventure

We absolutely did not set out to have such an epic day. I've not been so tired since I took a load of seasickness tablets during a trip to Antarctica. Did I mention we went to Antarctica? Oh yes, it's going to be like this for a while now, I'm pretty sure I'm going to [...]

Antarctica Days 9, 10 & 11

Day 9 Well today was an absolute write off. The tablets I'm taking for seasickness absolutely floor me. I actually take them for overnight bus rides because firstly they let me read on the bus without risking pebble dashing the seat in front of me with my partially digested dinner, but they also ease me [...]

Antarctica Day 8

One of the optional extras you can book is camping on the shore which I'm sure is a pretty fucking amazing experience if freezing to death is high on your bucket list, but conditions have to be right. They'd tried early on in the trip and last night they'd tried again but it had started [...]

Antarctica Day 7

Okay so firstly I need to address the exceptional housekeeping on this ship. You'd kind of expect your room to be refreshed once a day if you were feeling a little bit fancy, right? The housekeeper comes in in the morning once you're up and about and do the usual. They make your bed, put [...]

Antarctica Day 6

Today we'd be heading into the Lemaire Channel which at its narrowest point is about 75 metres and full of icebergs. Mario woke us up over the PA at 7am and we stumbled up to the dining room for breakfast. Wonder if I can pay Mario to record me a personalised wake up alarm for [...]

Antarctica Day 5

We were jolted awake at 6.30am by the dulcet tones of Mario over the PA welcoming us to the day. Jesus fucking Christ, Mario! A bit of warning would have been nice! We'd set an alarm for 7.30, I'd gotten up for a wee at about quarter past six all smug that we still had [...]

Antarctica Day 4

What a fucking day then! They'd told us yesterday if conditions were good, which was 50/50, that we could land on one of the South Shetland Islands. We tried to keep our hopes in check but it's difficult, especially when we got our first glimpse of land, plus a bonus iceberg for good measure. It [...]