Chasing Waterfalls

Buoyed by my apparent newfound ability to ride a scooter with a passenger without crashing, having a nervous breakdown or generally terrorising the general public, we kept hold of the little Honda Vario for a couple more days. I mean, we asked and paid Rp50,000 per day for it. We didn't just nick off with [...]

Blue Flames And Sulphur Lakes

We ended up catching an oven on wheels from Probolinggo to Banyuwangi, the latter of which is an absolute delight to say. "Y" over here is pronounced as a sort of "dj" so it's Ban-dju-wangi. Love it. Love it less when you're trying to catch a bus there from Probolinggo when you've read that they'll [...]

A Stroll Up Mount Snowdon

It is very important to consume appropriate quantities of bacon when getting up at god awful hours because everyone knows that bacon contains all the nutrients necessary to stop your body clock from going into shock upon the discovery that there are, in fact, two 4 o' clocks in a day. We wanted the early [...]

Spiti Valley: Lalung – Dhankar

I don't remember much of the walk to Dhankar, I just know it involved a lot of pain and with no McDonald's within hundreds of miles to provide an appropriate hangover cure, doom was imminent, at least for my liver and at least one of my kidneys. We were joined for the first part of [...]

Spiti Valley: Demul – Lalung

We were assured that it was downhill all the way from Demul to Lalung so we enjoyed our breakfast of eggs and bread, packed our lunch of Tibetan bread and jam into our bags and headed on our way. So it turns out that Spitians consider terrain to be down when there's more down than [...]

Spiti Valley: Komic – Demul

This morning we were provided with a breakfast of egg and bread, and a packed lunch of Tibetan bread and jam to take on our walk to Demul, the next village. Right. Our first real walk on this trek. We were advised to take the "cow road" until we got to what passes as a [...]

Spiti Valley: Kaza – Komic

So you're meant to start at Kibber or Langza for the Spiti Valley Homestay Trek, that's the classic route, but apparently that first leg from either of those two villages to the village of Komic is an absolute bitch of a walk, up a massive, relentless, unforgiving hill at altitude. Remember, even Kaza is around [...]

Tosh & The Tiny Glacier

Our hike down from Khirganga finally finished at Barshani where there are dhabas so you can rapidly replace all those calories you just burnt before your body thinks you're attempting something healthy and goes into shock. Our next stop was going to be Tosh which is up a hill. Quelle fucking surprise. You can walk [...]

Up The Hill And Down Again

On account of the fact we were already in Kalga we started the hike up to Khirganga from here, and it wasn't even raining. We headed off as soon as we could to take full advantage of the lack of wet stuff falling from the sky. There are two routes up which eventually converge and [...]

Boom Shankar

We'd been assured that the path down to Kasol was easy, "You just go down down," and it was more used than the Malana to Rashol pass and a guide most definitely wouldn't be needed. We set off in the morning and it was indeed down down. It's slightly less simple than anticipated on account [...]