The Queen Of Hill Stations

Seriously, Darjeeling. You better be worth the Hell Train I endured to get to you. Okay, actually the train only went as far as New Jalpaiguri, affectionately known as NJP because New Jalpaiguri clearly has way too many syllables, then it was a shared jeep from there to the town itself. That's fine though, that [...]

Varanasi – Part 2

I'm not entirely sure that my body clock loves Varanasi as much as I do, especially since I dragged myself out of bed for a second sunrise. It's so worth it though. A few of us wanted to head down to Assi Ghat to watch the morning aarti which is much smaller than the main [...]

Varanasi – Part 1

"Meh. Varanasi. No strong opinions either way..." ...Said no one ever. I braced myself for Varanasi, I'd been told that you either love it or hate it, there was no in between in one of Hinduism's holiest cities. Varanasi was where one Danish bloke I met concluded that you don't come to India to enjoy [...]

The Mildly Pornographic Temples Of Khajuraho

I was hoping I could just sneak in a cheeky little photo blog for Khajuraho and be done with it because I thought it'd just be a bunch of pretty temples adorned with a spot of casual porn and I could simply snigger my way around them like the child I am then upload all [...]

The Calm Before The Tourist Storm

Seriously India, I love you but you sure do like to punish people for last minute plan changes, and it was a last minute plan change that had me thoughtfully munching my way through a masala dosa whilst trying to decide if I'd rather spend the next 48 hours of my life either on or [...]

All Buddha’d Out

Way before that Jesus bloke cropped up shouting about being the son of god or some shit, men with hammers and chisels were hacking elaborate caves into rock faces in the name of much older religions. Ajanta caves date back to around the 2nd century BC and the younger Ellora caves started being created around [...]

Living It Up

One of my favourite things to wake up to, apart from breakfast in bed consisting of a large pile of bacon and half a cheesecake, is the cry of "Chaaiiii chaaiiii garam chaiiii garam garam chaiiii garam" as the chai wallah makes his way up and down overnight public transport offering up tiny ₹10 cups [...]

Bouldering, Sunsets And Macrame

Hampi consists mainly of granite boulders which Michael pretty much couldn't get over. Granite is proper expensive in Europe and here they just use roughly cut slabs as make shift fences like it was cheap plywood or some shit. Granite boulders are also good for climbing up. I've only ever been climbing indoors before, we [...]

Hampi On Two Less Terrifying Wheels

Hampi is what happens when you take a bunch of aesthetically pleasing stuff and chuck it all together in a manner that makes it really hard to keep your jaw from scraping on the floor in an undignified manner. I shit you not, your eyeholes won't cope. It's not just the boulders and the ruins [...]

Hello, Feni, Meet My Liver

I have so many habits I need to drop as soon as I get back to the UK. The head wobble for one. Despite having exactly zero idea what it really means I appear to have adopted it and seem to use it without realising. If I keep doing it back home people will just [...]