After we decided to fuck our LEJOG attempt off due to injury and mental health, we found ourselves with spare time and money. Our running joke when things go to shit is “should have gone to Lanzarote” but we decided to think bigger, somewhere to make us feel better about having to abandon a long hike, and ended up spunking large quantities of cash on an actual holiday for a change, rather than a whirlwind tourist adventure resulting in more fatigue than we’d started with.
The Seychelles, guys. Holy fuck. It’s exactly like you’d imagine it to be. It’s everything you’d expect from an island paradise (with the price tag to match). We were there in July, apparently the “wrong” time of year, the locals considered it cold, but with a steady temperature of 24°C we just about coped.
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BUDGET for one person (based on two sharing)
Return flights: £1647.90
Car rental (2 days): £41.90
Bicycle rental (La Digue): £9.45
Eating out: £150.51
Tea, coffee, soft drinks: £11.64
Entrance fees, guided tours: £98.15
Scuba diving: £202.80
Everything else: £25.85
Grand Total: £3482.38
The Sterling amount is approximate, I’m just using the exchange rate used by the app I track my budget with. It’s not 100% accurate but it’s close enough. Could we have done it cheaper? Of course, but it wouldn’t have been as much fun. We flew business class outbound for a start. We treated ourselves to taxis from the ferry to our accommodation on both islands when public bus would have done the job for Rs12 each. We drank alcohol every night. We mostly ate at home but we did have a few meals out. I went diving, we visited places with entrance fees, and we rented a car for a couple of days.
Heading To The Seychelles
We’d accidentally booked Business Class. I say accidentally, we’d started checking out flight prices to the Seychelles once we decided that we weren’t going to finish the hike and did some serious soul (and savings) searching after we saw the price of the return flights for the dates we wanted. Anywhere between £1400 if you…
I’ve Never Been So Damn Chilled
You wouldn’t think someone with an aversion to sand would throw obnoxious quantities of cash at a beach holiday would you. I hate the tiny particles of evil but I know from experience that as long as I have access to a shower, give me a couple days and I get over myself and start…
Butt Nuts & Beaches
Everywhere you look in The Seychelles you’ll see images of a coconut that looks suspiciously like a massive arse. It’s the nut of the Coco De Mer which only grows naturally in two places in the world; the islands of Curieuse and Praslin. Yeah okay they are grown elsewhere these days, but if you’re going…
Giant Tortoises On Curieuse
Huge fuck off great big tortoises are a thing that exist here in The Seychelles. They’re commonly kept as pets which is amazing as long as they’re treated properly. We were told that back in the day anyone could have one but there ended up bring so much mistreatment with these beautiful animals being kept…
A Day On La Digue
Ah, La Digue. The epitome of chill. An island of very few vehicles, most of which are electric. So how does everyone get around this little slice of paradise? Fucking bicycles. I knew there had to be a trade off, I fucking hate bicycles. Half an hour on one of those bastards and I feel…
Takamaka Rum Distillery
It’s not been too much of a chore, being on Mahé. We arrived on the Thursday after a relatively sane ferry crossing from Praslin, everyone seemed to retain their stomach contents and I even managed to get a nap in rather than sitting bolt upright, staring straight ahead, gripping onto the armrests for dear life…
A Morning In The Capital
We bussed to Victoria, the capital, on Saturday and spent the morning at the National Museum of History learning all about the history of the islands right from when it was frequented by pirates, through being claimed by France, all the way to independence. Turns out France claimed the islands by putting a Stone Of…
A Bit Of Underwater Mahé
Tarrant doesn’t dive but on account of her being The Best Girlfriend In The World™ she gives no shits if I abandon her for a day to go and make bubbles. I thought twice in one holiday might be pushing it but I think she likes having the day to herself to sacrifice her epidermis…
Morne Seychellois National Park
We decided to rent a car for the last couple of days just so we could cram more stuff in really. Nothing too strenuous, just a little bit of sightseeing, perhaps one walking trail, mostly beaches. I’m sure the public bus would take us to everywhere we wanted to go but we didn’t want to…
Finishing Up In The Seychelles
So it turns out that driving in The Seychelles is quite the exercise in bum clenching. The islands go from sea level to actual fucking mountain quite rapidly and the only way to do this is with very steep, very winding roads which are also bus routes. There are mirrors on a lot of the…
Useful shit to know…
The Seychelles is expensive but not too hideous, but then we live in Brighton which is an obnoxiously expensive city in itself. Costs are more or less on a par, slightly more in some places.
- Restaurants in Cote D’or ranged from Brighton prices to “Oh Dear Gods No!” We ate at the Berjaya Pizzeria one night and paid Rs670 (About £41) for both of us for a delicious main each and a couple of beers each. Café Des Arts down the way wanted up to Rs480 (nearly £30) for some mains, and that was before tax and service charge. There’s also a fantastic takeaway there (cash only) called Ma’s that has precooked dishes for up to Rs80 (£5).
- The two sit down places to eat in Anse á la Mouche were very pricey, an average of Rs400 (£25) for a main.
- There’s a takeaway here too for similar prices to Ma’s.
- We drove to Perry’s Grillz for dinner out instead. Very much worth the terrifying drive up very steep, winding, narrow roads. The menu below is correct as of July 2022 but they don’t always have everything available.
- Public buses are the best way to get around on Mahé and Praslin. Journeys are a flat rate of Rs12 if you’re paying in cash, regardless of where you’re going.
- The bus company, SPTC, are trying to sway people over to using a preloaded travel card, journeys are Rs10 on the normal card but it looks like there’s a Visitors Card which isn’t a good deal at all. You’re best off just paying cash.
- The SPTC app is invaluable for planning journeys. You can easily check timetables and plan an itinerary complete with a map which is fantastic if you don’t know the area.
- We found buses to mostly be punctual, even a little early sometimes. But we never tried to travel during rush hours.
- It’s worth noting the SPTC luggage policy. They won’t let you on with suitcases, but backpacks are fine.
- We prebooked our Mahé – Praslin – Mahé ferries online at Seychelles Ferry. At the time of booking you’re given the option to book a shuttle between the airport and the jetty which we did, though you can easily take a public bus.
- You must print out the voucher they email to you if you do it this way. Everything is handled by Creole Travel. We were met at the airport by them, my name was on a card, and we were taken to the jetty. They have offices at all the jettys and they’ll convert your printed voucher to proper tickets on the day of travel.
- I was advised that a private taxi between the airport and Mahé jetty should be €30 to €35 depending on your negotiation skills. The shuttle was €10.
- The currency is Seychelle Rupees but Euros are widely accepted for accommodation and activities. In fact our accommodations could only charge in Euros if paying by card. We paid for an excursion in cash Euros, I paid for my diving in Euros; card the first time, cash the second. Our car rental was paid in Euros. We paid in Rupees in restaurants and shops. I feel like big things are paid in Euros and every day things are paid in Rupees.
- We used absa ATMs. They charged an eye-watering Rs100 per transaction which, at the time of writing, is just over £6.
- The type G plug is used, the same as you’d see in the UK and Malta. It’s on a 240V supply.
COVID 19 SHIT
When we visited all travellers had to fill out a Travel Authorisation form to get permission to travel to The Seychelles. You can do this online or there a dedicated app which is what we used.
We had to submit proof of our Covid vaccinations and of our accommodation confirmation, as well as a selfie and photos of our passports. Tarrant uploaded the PDF documents, for some reason mine wouldn’t let me so I used the “take a photo” option. We both had confirmation within the hour. We printed them out but were never asked for them at the airport. I did have to upload them to Etihad though to get verified to fly.
At the time, wearing a face covering was optional outdoors but mandatory indoors with a fine of Rs1000 for failing to wear one. It wasn’t really enforced in shops or restaurants though, but everyone wore one on the buses and ferries.